May 17, 2011
![Top 5 trends in NutriBeauty Top 5 trends in NutriBeauty](https://eu-images.contentstack.com/v3/assets/blt09e5e63517a16184/bltafc06db067aebac6/64cbf83cdb0bcc7a8de33eaa/NewHopeNetwork_Horizontal_RGB.png?width=700&auto=webp&quality=80&disable=upscale)
Estee Lauder's Time Zone, Olay's Professional Pro-X, and Lancôme's Genifique employ peptide chains that activate genes leading to younger, smoother skin. According to Lancôme's marketing materials, Genefique contains a youth-activating concentrate that triggers genes to produce proteins which reduce wrinkles and fine lines. Scott Van Winkle, managing director at Canaccord Genuity, notes that specialty products such as these will first be available in prestige channels, like spas and high-end specialty retail outlets at home and abroad, before they broach "mass-tige" channels like department stores, in more affordable forms made for mass market distribution.
Pop star turned cover girl Taylor Swift heads up Covergirl's campaign for its new NatureLuxe line of cosmetics, while actress Kristen Bell enjoys Neutrogena Naturals "pure, natural skincare." Covergirl and Neutrogena created these cleaner lines to satisfy consumers worried about potential links between parabens and cancer and the carcinogenic byproducts of sodium laureth sulfate. Though Covergirl's ethical commitment to natural & organic products is likely tenuous, these natural rollouts at least mark a trend in bigger players committing to the marketing end of natural products.
Most cosmetic companies now have products formulated around plant stem cells. According to Myra Michelle Eby, founder of MyChelle Dermaceuticals, "Peptides and stem cells give skin the blueprint of young skin." Stem cells from Uttwiler Spatlauber apple trees in Switzerland have been particularly useful to many cosmetic companies, including Mibelle Biochemistry, for its PhytoCellTec apple stem cell extract. Scientists were tipped off to their utility when the apples that fell from these trees stayed ripe much longer than average apples.
Sephora now has an entire wall dedicated to natural products in its store while Target has a subcategory for naturals and organics on its website. Larger companies looking to expand into the natural market are acquiring these smaller companies gaining shelf space in the mass market. Deals include Shiseido's 2010 takeover of Bare Escentuals and LVMH's 70% acquisition of Nude Skincare in early 2011.
As of June 1, 2011, Whole Foods will enforce new standards companies must meet to use “organic” on their labels for shampoos, soaps, cosmetics and body lotions. The shift has sent many personal care manufacturers scrambling to reformulate and re-label their products, and any companies that don’t meet the standards must scratch organic from their labels or say goodbye to Whole Foods shelves. Products may use the word “organic” on labels if they contain at least 95% USDA certified organic ingredients, and “made with organic” if they contain more than 70% USDA certified organic ingredients and no prohibited ingredients. “Contains organic” will be permitted on labels with over 70% organic ingredients, but allows for certain processes and ingredients the USDA prohibits.
As of June 1, 2011, Whole Foods will enforce new standards companies must meet to use “organic” on their labels for shampoos, soaps, cosmetics and body lotions. The shift has sent many personal care manufacturers scrambling to reformulate and re-label their products, and any companies that don’t meet the standards must scratch organic from their labels or say goodbye to Whole Foods shelves. Products may use the word “organic” on labels if they contain at least 95% USDA certified organic ingredients, and “made with organic” if they contain more than 70% USDA certified organic ingredients and no prohibited ingredients. “Contains organic” will be permitted on labels with over 70% organic ingredients, but allows for certain processes and ingredients the USDA prohibits.
Topicals and ingestibles. Organic skin care and conventional products with functional additives. Supplements, food & beverage. It's all part of the larger story at play in beauty, a story shaped by trends toward healthy aging as the Baby Boomer cohort moves into senior citizenry. As such, Nutrition Business Journal defines NutriBeauty as the burgeoning market of healthy products targeting age and appearance. It's a big definition, but it needn't be a loose one.
Early efforts by NBJ place the nutribeauty market at $15 billion in 2010, broken out by several product categories. The largest contributors to this sizable total include conventional beauty brands using natural ingredients to make a functional claim, and a traditional category of N&OPC products without functional aspirations. Food & beverage products making beauty claims—such as Republic of Tea's Get Gorgeous, an herbal tea with antioxidants promoting clear skin, and Dove's Beautiful chocolate bar featuring vitamins C and E for skin nourishment— represent the smallest slice of the pie, but the fastest growing one. Nutricosmetics—dietary supplements formulated for cosmetic and age-mitigating result—approached $900 million in 2010 U.S. sales, with the appearance side of the equation (hair, skin and nails) accounting for approximately $600 million of that total, and anti-agers working at a more cellular level accounting for $300 million.
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